This is one of my older works and I learned a lot of by painting these guys, tried a lot of diferent methods a procedures, so i guess, you can find it interesting too. Most important is, that I have a lot of photos of the whole procedure.
As ussual I started with cutting of the parts from sprues and cleaned the mold lines.
Nice thing about these Dark Vengeance terminators is, that they can be temporarily assembled without glue. That helps a lot during paintind and overal handling of the model. On the photo above you can see the models assembled and cleaned. Next was drilling the holes in the barrels of autocannon and stormbolters. This detail is in my opinion extremly important on final look and helps the wiever to "believe" that such a character could exist.
After removing mold lines, local sanding and drilling, there comes my beloved Mr. Surfacer 1200 as a primer. Diluted to fine mixture and applied with airbrush on assembled (not glued!) models:
As you can see Mr. Surfacer makes nice, smooth and consistent surface and helps a lot with further levels of paintm because they stick on it very nicely. Also, being light grey, it highlights all the imperfections - for example mould lines you forgot to remove or all the receses, schratches or mould anomalies etc. Like this one on the bottom of one stormbolter:
I removed all the mould lines highlighted by surfacer and surfaced these parts again on the places where the surface was scratched. You have to understand, that the final colour will be very light (these are Deathwing terminators after all) and all the imperfections are much more visible on lighter surfaces than dark ones. Be very thorough with model assembly and cleaning, when you plan to do some ligh color schemes.
Now preshading. Preshading is technique that highlights dark places, receses and shades. You use it before base color and you dont cover it completely by base color. Here I used dark brown from Vallejo and airbrushed the miniature from underside - what I did was, that I held the miniature upside down and sprayed on its feet and bottom parts (and of course some other places unaproachable this way, where the shades would be).
Now I used lighter and lighter colour (soft brown, sand brown, sand, light ochre, bonewhite) and sprayed the model from steeper and steeper angle. If I started with dark brown from bottom, soft brown was from bottom side, sand brown and sand from almost horizontal angle and bonewhite from top.
As you can see, the miniature is pretty dark in the start, but by adding more layers of lighter colours it comes to the light again and the receses are nicely shaded without any hard edges.
I dont like the
GW look of the Deathwing because they are very orange in my opinion. Because the lore is talking that the members of the first squad who fought the Broodlord whose cult terrorized their homeplanet painted their armour white, because it was colour of death (and they were sure, they will die), I want my Deathwing more white than actual GW look. Therefore one more layer of bonewhite:
Here we go, I liked this better. Yes, I know a lot of brown shading disapeared, and now I would left more of it, but as I said, I learned a lot from this. I always was little too scared of contrasting colours and transitions from very different colours (like brown and white :-). Recently I´m trying to experiment in this matter more and more. So yeah, this last step was probably little too much white.
No better time than now to make sergeants cloak. He is a Dark Angel, so the cloak will be green. Dark green, no way around that. And because I wanted to do it with airbrush, I had to cover everything else. Sooo... first of all, I covered the miniature in satin varnish, to protect all the work. Then i used Humbrols Maskol to cover neigbouring details. All the rest I covered with tape.
The maskol is made by several companies, all the stuff is the same thing as far as I know. You can also use some "Tack-it", tape, latex gloves, plastic bags, whatever suits you. Then I used airbrush and aplied dark green on all the surface of cape. Then lighter green from top side and the lightest green on the most top parts.
Again, today I would go for more contrasting shades of green.
This is the result: as you can see, there are few places painted green on other places than cape. I knew about this, and this parts are those, that will be painted in further proces, so no damage done.
Back to the Maskol: dont be afraid of it damaging your miniature. It goes down easy and I had (so far) no problem using it. When applying it, I use one old brush, because the Maskol isn´t very nice to the brush and I definitely don´t recommend usind your fine expensive brush!
Using the same technique (maskol and tape) I airbrushed autocannon with dark and light red colour. Remember, how the part, you are going to paint, is situated on the model, where the shades would be, where the light will show. Paint the part accordingly.
As you can see, when I had red paint, I used it on the Deathwing symbol on shoulderpads, stormbolters etc. (with regular brush, not airbrush). Then I based all the deatail, which I planned to paint gold, brown or ochre with dark sanstone.
Gold and metalic colours like to have undercoat of similar nonmetalic colour or black. It makes them shinier, richer and generally imperoves their look. Try this yourself, paint gold on blak, brown and white, and you will see the difference.
Same procedure on all the terminators. Then I painted black all the joints, hoses and other to be black or non-gold metalic parts:
Then I painted all the chest symbols dark green with one exception - the sergeant, whose aquila was painted gold (hes a sergeant of the first company after all). The ends of feathers were higlighted with lighter green later.
Thats all for the part I, in part two I´ll show you painting the details, some washing and how I made bases for these guys.